CNA – The Jewels of Upper Piedmont

The Jewels of Upper Piedmont: From the “Trenino delle Cento Valli” to the Splendor of the Lakes.

Upper Piedmont and Lake Maggiore: A Weekend Filled with Lakes, Mountains, and Vintage Trains

There’s a corner of Piedmont where the lake meets the mountains, vineyards climb up rolling hills, and a little green train winds through fairy-tale valleys: welcome to Upper Piedmont, the perfect destination for anyone looking for a weekend away from it all.

Lake Maggiore is the ideal starting point. Its shores, dotted with Art Nouveau villas and botanical gardens, offer views that have enchanted travelers for centuries. Stresa, with its elegant lakeside promenade, is the gateway to the Borromean Islands: Isola Bella, with its Baroque palace and terraced Italian gardens, and Isola dei Pescatori, where time seems to have stood still amid narrow alleys and small restaurants overlooking the water. A simple boat trip is all it takes to feel immersed in an atmosphere suspended between the 19th century and la dolce vita.

But it is as you head inland that Upper Piedmont reveals its most authentic and surprising side. And this is where the true star of this journey takes center stage: the Vigezzina-Centovalli, one of the most spectacular scenic train routes in Europe.

This little train connects Domodossola, in Italy, to Locarno, in Switzerland, passing through the Vigezzo Valley—not coincidentally nicknamed “the Valley of the Painters” for the extraordinary light that has inspired generations of artists—and the Centovalli, a succession of gorges, forests, and streams that the name itself promises and delivers. In just over two hours, the little train climbs over breathtaking viaducts, skims past waterfalls, passes through tunnels carved into the rock, and offers panoramic views of landscapes that change with every curve: from centuries-old chestnut groves to stone villages clinging to the slopes, all the way to views that suddenly open up onto Lake Maggiore.

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The beauty of the Vigezzina-Centovalli is that it can be experienced in a thousand different ways. You can travel the entire route in a single day, perhaps choosing a panoramic car with wider windows so you don’t miss a thing. Or you can break up the journey with stops along the way: in Santa Maria Maggiore, the main town of the Vigezzo Valley, with its quaint historic center and the Chimney Sweep Museum, which tells the story of emigration and itinerant trades; or in Malesco, the starting point for walks through forests and alpine pastures. Hiking and cycling enthusiasts will find trails and routes that crisscross the railroad line, offering an experience that combines the nostalgic charm of train travel with the freedom of moving at a leisurely pace.

And the good news is that planning a weekend here is a breeze: two nights are enough to enjoy a day on the lake—with boat rides, villas, and gardens—and a day entirely dedicated to the little train and the valley, perhaps ending the day in Locarno, on the Swiss side, for a coffee in the square before heading back. Those who want to extend their stay can add a stroll through Domodossola, a border town with a historic center lined with arcades that’s worth taking your time to explore.

The cuisine, too, is yet another reason to stop by: cheeses from the mountain pastures, local cured meats, the famous chestnuts of the Vigezzo Valley, and dishes that reflect the blend of Piedmontese tradition with influences from the Ossola Valley and Ticino.

In short, if you’re looking for a weekend that combines the relaxed elegance of the great lake with the untamed charm of the mountains—and features one of Europe’s most beautiful train journeys along the way—Upper Piedmont and the Vigezzina-Centovalli await you. Just hop on board.