CNA – Upper Lunigiana

A journey through the traditions, flavors, and history of Upper Lunigiana.

The Upper Lunigiana is the northernmost heart of this borderland, a region that wraps around Zeri, Filattiera, and Bagnone, at the foot of the Cisa Pass, a historic crossing between Tuscany and Emilia. Since Roman times, and even more so during the Middle Ages, this area was a key crossroads on the Via Francigena, the ancient pilgrimage route connecting northern Europe to Rome: pilgrims, merchants, and armies crossed these valleys, leaving behind a legacy of parish churches, stone bridges, and fortified castles, such as the one in Filattiera.

The traditions of this area are deeply rooted in the culture of the chestnut: for centuries, chestnut flour has been the main staple of mountain communities, and it still plays a central role today in desserts such as castagnaccio and necci. On the culinary front, the Alta Lunigiana is the birthplace of the testarolo, one of Italy’s oldest types of flatbread, cooked on scorching-hot clay griddles and then topped with pesto or cheese, and panigacci, thin discs of unleavened dough baked in terracotta pans and served as an accompaniment to local cured meats and cheeses. There is no shortage of porcini mushrooms, harvested in the Apennine forests, and traditional cured meats, including lard and mortadella from Filattiera.

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Finally, Zeri is known for the native breed of sheep that bears its name, which is the basis for cheeses and traditional local pastoral dishes.

A region where history, faith, and traditional country cuisine still intertwine today in an authentic and little-known landscape.

Here’s an itinerary to help you experience this region firsthand:

Let’s start in Pontremoli, the pearl of Lunigiana, a charming medieval village through which the Via Francigena passes. The tour includes a visit to the Museum of Stele Statues in Piagnaro Castle, followed by a stroll through the bridges and squares of the historic center. In the afternoon, we’ll explore an old artisan workshop specializing in chair caning and furniture restoration, offering a deep dive into local traditions.

The next day, we’ll head to the village of Scorano to visit the Baroque garden of Villa Pavesi Negri Baldini, followed by a visit to a company that produces testaroli using traditional methods. The day concludes with a wine tasting at an old watermill nestled among vineyards and olive groves.