Tuscia is a historical and geographical region of central Italy that extends in the province of Viterbo and touches northern Lazio, Tuscany and Umbria. Its landscape of rolling hills, volcanic lakes and medieval villages is rich in history, with Etruscan, Roman and medieval remains. When we talk about Tuscia it is impossible not to immediately think of Viterbo, with its medieval historic center, Acquapendente, Montefiascone and Bolsena with its volcanic lake and Civita di Bagnoregio, a village perched on a tuff spur. But let’s go in order…
Viterbo: history, art and relaxation among spas and local flavors
Our trip starts in beautiful Viterbo, a spa town with a glorious medieval past and a relaxed present, made of taste and beauty.
Let’s start from the historic heart of the city, with a visit to the Palace of the Popes, a majestic building that was the residence of the pontiffs in the thirteenth century and hosted the first and longest conclave in history: stufi Indecisive for years, the Viterbeis locked them in a large room of the palace and uncovered part of the roof, so as to convince them to elect the successor of Peter as soon as possible. It was 1270, the pope elected was Gregory X and thus the tradition of the conclave was born.
From this building we continue to the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture, flanked by an impressive Gothic bell tower.
A visit to the San Pellegrino district, a corner of Viterbo that has remained unchanged over time: you will feel like walking in the Middle Ages! Among stone alleys, tower houses and pointed arches, you can admire unique architectural details, such as the characteristic “profferli”, the external stairways typical of the time. A tour in this area is a walk into the past, among artisan shops and views that you can’t find anywhere else in the world.
After an intense morning between history and art, it’s time to relax at the Terme dei Papi, one of the most famous city attractions. These thermal baths, known since the Etruscan and Roman times, boast sulphurous waters with beneficial properties for skin and body. The ideal is to immerse yourself in the monumental swimming pool or treat yourself to a spa treatment to regenerate completely. You are already better, right?
To end the day, you can not miss a dinner in a typical trattoria of the old town. The recommended menu includes traditional dishes from Viterbo, such as chickpea and chestnut soup, lombrichelli all’amatriciana and scottadito abbacchio. All accompanied by a glass of Aleatico di Gradoli, a sweet and aromatic red wine, perfect to conclude in beauty a sensory experience between authentic flavors and ancient history.
Acquapendente and the festival of Pugnaloni
Acquapendente is a medieval village in the Tuscia, very close to the border with Umbria and Tuscany. Among the things to see there is definitely the Basilica of the Holy Sepulchre, which houses a relic linked to the tomb of Christ. Walking through the old town, you can admire renaissance palaces and medieval towers.
One of the most famous events in the town is the festival of Pugnaloni, held every year on the third Sunday of May. This celebration pays tribute to the freedom conquered by the inhabitants against the rule of Federico Barbarossa: protagonists are the Pugnaloni, large panels decorated with mosaics of flowers and leaves, made by local groups that compete to create the most evocative work.
The day culminates with a historical parade and the award of the best Pugnalone, followed by music and tastings of typical dishes of Tuscia. It is a unique opportunity to discover local traditions and immerse yourself in an atmosphere of celebration and colors.
Bolsena and Montefiscone, a lake of flowers and flavors
Our day begins in Montefiascone, a small town perched on a hill that offers an extraordinary panoramic view of Lake Bolsena. We will be in the homeland of the famous wine Est! Est!! Est!!! , whose history has its roots in the Middle Ages. Legend has it that a German bishop sent his servant to look for the best taverns with good wine along the way. This marked with the word “Est” (there is) the inns with excellent wine, but in Montefiascone he found a wine so good to write “Est! Est! Est!!!“. To immerse yourself in this tradition, you can participate in a tasting in a local winery, where you taste the different varieties of wine, accompanied by typical products such as pecorino and porchetta.
In the afternoon we move to Bolsena, lying on the shores of the largest lake of volcanic origin in Europe. The historic centre of Bolsena is an authentic medieval jewel, characterized by cobbled streets, towers and old stone houses. The Basilica of Santa Cristina, a masterpiece of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, is linked to the famous Eucharistic miracle of Bolsena (1263), episode that inspired the institution of the feast of Corpus Christi by Pope Urban IV. Inside the basilica, you can visit the chapel where the miracle happened and the early Christian catacombs, witnesses of the spread of Christianity in the first centuries.
The Infiorata di Bolsena, which takes place every year on the occasion of Corpus Christi, 2025 will take place on 22 June and will see the streets of the historic center turn into a wonderful floral carpet. The inhabitants, with great skill, create colorful designs using flower petals, dyed sawdust and other natural materials. The works depict religious and symbolic motifs, paying homage to the Eucharistic Miracle. The procession crosses the flowery path, making the event even more exciting, a unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the culture and spirituality of this charming village on the shores of Lake Bolsena.
For dinner there is nothing better than stopping at one of the restaurants overlooking the lake, where you can taste grilled whitefish, freshwater fish with a delicate flavor, often accompanied by seasonal vegetables and a dash of extra virgin olive oil from Tuscia. All this can be accompanied by a glass of local white wine, perfect to enhance the flavors of fish.
Civita di Bagnoregio, the ghost town full of life
Known as “the city that dies”, Civita di Bagnoregio is one of the most famous villages in the world.. Perched on a spur of tuff and connected to the outside world only by a long pedestrian bridge, this pearl of Tuscia offers a journey through time.
We arrive in the city from the panoramic bridge, about 300 meters long. The route offers a spectacular view of the surrounding valleys, characterized by the famous gullies, clay formations that make the landscape almost alien. Once you enter the village, you are greeted by the Porta Santa Maria, the ancient main entrance surmounted by a pair of lions that squeeze their heads between their jaws, symbol of the victory of the citizens over the tyrants. From here, you enter the cobbled streets, where time seems to have stopped.
Among the most interesting points stands out Piazza San Donato, the heart of Civita, with its Church of San Donato, which preserves a valuable wooden crucifix from the fifteenth century. Walking, you can admire well-preserved medieval palaces, small craft shops and breathtaking views of the valley.
In the afternoon, you can visit the Geological Museum and the Frane, which tells about the fragility of the territory and the continuous erosions that threaten Civita. Another interesting stop is the House of San Bonaventura, where, according to tradition, the famous Franciscan theologian was born.
Before leaving the village, it is worth stopping at one of the many panoramic viewpoints for a few photos and to admire once again the spectacle of the gulches at sunset.
If you want to come with us and enjoy 4 days discovering this wonderful historical region, all you have to do is contact us! And remember: these are just suggestions, we can create any itinerary for you!
